Vitamin E is a lipid-soluble vitamin present in many food sources, especially soy, nuts, whole-wheat flour, and oils. Systemically, it is reported to have numerous health benefits to the eyes and cardiovascular systems due to its ability to reduce lipid peroxidation. When applied topically, numerous cutaneous benefits have been shown.
The primary mechanism of action to justify vitamin E's importance is its potent antioxidant ability. Because of this ability to quench free radicals, especially lipid peroxyl radicals, the term "protector" has been used to describe the actions of vitamin E and its derivatives. Several studies show their ability to reduce UV-radiation-induced erythema and edema, sunburn cell formation, and lipid peroxidation. Clinical improvement in the visible signs of skin aging has been documented with decrease in both skin wrinkling and skin tumor formation.
Multiple studies have been performed on both tocopherol and its acetyl es ter derivative, tocopherol acetate.
While tocopherol is the primary active form of vitamin E, the vitamin E esters have also been shown to penetrate the epidermis when applied topically.
Like other vitamins, however, conversion to the more bioactive form is required for action to occur at the target. Limits on the speed of the necessary hydrolysis reaction limit bioactivity of the acetate form of vitamin E. One study found tocopherol sorbate, a less commonly used vitamin E derivative, to be photoprotective via its antioxidant actions as well. All this data validates the popularity of vitamin E and its derivatives as antioxidant, rejuvenating ingredients in cosmetics. Current trends suggest vitamin E's popularity will continue in the future.